![]() ![]() If this setup works somewhat I’ll do it better next time.įirst, it was quite fiddly to find out which extension rings to use, to focus correctly, to get the stuff set up in a way that works. Of course I have not bothered with stuff like darkening the room to get better contrast or masking the unused part of the light table to minimize stray light. I normally use it as a light table, works like a charm. That one’s easy, I have a cheap USB powered light pad from HUION I got on Amazon. I know it will be better with a stable repro stand for the camera and a proper macro lens.īummer is I got none… so I use my sharpest lens, the Revuenon 55mm f:1.7 with extension rings to fill the frame with a negative.Īnd I need a light source. I set up my test rig on the living room table. With the added benefit that the so called scanning will be much much faster than on my Plustek scanner. I’ll have to use my digital camera to scan the negatives. Of course, a film scanner does not work with an iPad. Not so easy with film! I’ll have to find a way to ‘scan’ my negatives properly. Import your photos and start working on them…. Lots of apps, from Apple’s own Photos to Lightroom Mobile make digital life easy. The goal I have set myself is to get a film photographer’s workflow going on the iPad. It means finding new ways to do something. Of course working with the iPad means relearning a lot of things. (Sorry for the macabre example, but I happen to like that one…) On the other hand, in my eyes the so called ‘real computers’ are more or less on their way out. That is is said not to be good at doing real work like on a real computer…. Thanks again to all who have contributed and helped rationalise my approach.Yes I know that supposedly the iPad is not really a good content creation device. The outcome is that although I am still not fully comfortable with the colours (the background in the first one is too green while the skin is still a bit pink the skin in the second one is a bit too yellow, while the wall yellow is exactly right), I am confident my processed image is close to the original transparency, that the tonal gradations match, and I have a preset I can use as a starting point for future scans. The match looked even better when, instead of comparing the image on screen with the transparency on the light panel, I held the transparency up against a white background on screen next to the displayed image. ![]() I still had to adjust white balance, but for both images setting temp = 5000k and tint = -25 gave a reasonable match. I rescanned the images with the light panel on full power. I found no difference in the colour and exposure whether I used electronic of mechanical shutter, or pixel-shift multishot or single shot. Next time I shall properly waste a single sheet to get a test sheet. This could be down to the residual overexposed scene (which is undetectable). So still not very close to the specified temp = 5000k but better overall.Ī sheet of totally overexposed film (i.e. After plugging it in they were temp = 5350k and tint = -2. Before plugging it in, the Lightroom white balance settings for the panel alone were around temp = 5800K and tint = -35. I have made some progress, attributable to correcting some user error and understanding some machine error.įirst, I realised that the Kaiser light panel rechargeable battery was running down plugging it in to the mains boosted its brightness considerably, and adjusted its colour.
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